Someone asked me why Kilimanjaro, and suggested that I look at Nepal and one of the long treks around the Himalayas. I was pretty sure Kili was the mountain for me, but after just one YouTube video of the Annapurna Circuit I was mesmerised!
(Here is the clip that swept me away https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQy8rDxEdRU)
The breathtaking mountain views, the prayer flags, the high altitude monasteries and tea houses, the smiling people... I couldn't help falling for the trip!
Once I had the passion in my veins it didn't take long to research the trip. £400 for flights and $500 budget for all expenses over there. A third of the Kili price!
I found that although some people hired guides and/or a porter to take them around the trek, this wasn't necessary as the trail is well marked. Hiring a local does help their local economy of course but detracts from the adventure and I was on a budget. I also wanted to push myself out of the comfort zone.
The trekking season in Nepal is October/November or March/April, however the spring season is quite likely to be cloudy in the afternoons, detracting from the views.
As it was already mid November I was looking at 12 months before I could go!! I wrestled with the dilemma of taking 3 weeks off work (required for completing the circuit) and whether I'd have any customers when I got back, then realised nothing would change in 12 months time.
I was fit and healthy, no girlfriend to consider and I'd just finished paying off my debts. It was a perfect time to go!
I started telling my customers I may be away and booked my flight later that day, for 2 weeks later!
The adrenaline stated pumping!
So I flew out to Kathmandu and was welcomed by a guy from the hotel I'd booked. He had been waiting for 2 hours while the plane circled but was still smiling! He showed me the way to my taxi, past an abandoned car surrounded by trolleys. No, wait... This is your taxi sir! Moved the trolleys, found a 15 year old who turned out to be the driver and we were off!
BEEP BEEP BEEP! Kathmandu's roads are a bit like a tame version of Indian ones I guess. Once you become familiar with the system of hooting it all makes sense.
The hotel guy couldn't do enough for me, but what I really wanted was to get my trekking permits. Unfortunately it was too late that day.
6.30am the next morning I was in another taxi towards the tourist bus depot. Unfortunately the taxi dropped me half a mile from any busses and when I did find some, they were local ones. No other trekkers in sight had me a little concerned.
I'd read a lot on the internet about Nepalese people coming to 'help' and then expecting a tip. I had my guard up as 6 or so surrounded me asking what I wanted and how they could help. It seemed incredibly difficult to just get a bus ticket to Besisahar, where my trek would begin. In the end I got one and the crowd of helpers dispersed.
None of them wanted any money, they just wanted to help! Along with the guy from the hotel, I started to realise just how friendly these people are :)
With hindsight the local bus with local people was a much better experience than the tourist bus.
7 hours later we were in Besisahar and I got my trekking permits. Back on another bus, sat a few rows in front of a goat, this time a short journey to Bhulbhule where I would stay the night.
Not really sure where to stay I followed a group with a guide, from one teahouse to the next, all apparently full. Then I bumped into Noreen, who I'd met on the bus. The teahouse owner suggested we could share a room! Hold on! I said! I checked what Noreen thought about it and she was pleased to have some company. So, I was sorted!
Checked out the room and Noreen, in her German accent but perfect English said 'Wow! Look at that view!'. Sunset on the mountains we were headed for the next day.
Following morning set out with Noreen onto the trail proper. This is us leaving Bhulbhule.
The route followed the river and passed through little villages every hour or so. Alongside our path waterfalls cascaded down.
Suspension bridges frequently took our route across the fast flowing river.
The ancient path we were following was used for moving livestock and produce through the mountains.
Refreshments were available by the trail side, in the villages. We asked the lady here if we could take her picture and she ran off, leaving us confused. A minute later she came back with this scarf, she said would match the flowers behind!
We met a lot of other trekkers, some solo, some in small groups and some who had guides.
Here are Jack and Nima, who became our good friends.
Jack was carrying a 30kg rucksack filled with notepads and pencils for the school children.
Here also we met Peter and Michael from Melbourne who, again, became close friends.
This is our second night's accomodation, most of us stayed here. It was about $2 per night plus dinner and breakfast at around $3 each meal, often the room charge was waived if we had both meals at the same teahouse.
Sometimes our path was shared with various herds. Here Cat from Brazil keeps her footing while the goats run past.
Making more friends from America, Germany, Brazil and Slovakia.
This is the view from another teahouse. There is a Stupa at the bottom of the picture.
Our gang keeping warm inside the teahouse. Joined now by Layla from Iran.
The views were spectacular, all day, every day.
I love the prayer flags, I think Jana did too!
This is my staple food, dal bhat. Lentil curry with veg curry and rice.
I can name this one, it's Ganapurna ice flow behind me.
And this is the Grande Barriere with Zohar from Israel taking a rest.
This is Tilicho Lake, highest lake in the world at 4900 metres.
I took a video of one of the suspension bridges. I was a bit worried about dropping my phone as the bridge swayed. This was probably the most stable one!
This is Sean from Uzbekistan and his guide Jhanak, who is the best guide we met on the trail. Great bloke if you want a trekking guide, he's the best.
View from Thorong High Camp
Finally, the Thorong La Pass. After a very early start in darkness we peaked at 5419 metres.
After decending to Muktinath we jumped on a bus to Tatopani where there were some well deserved hot springs.
I left the bus here on my own and went up to see the Poon Hill sunrise, some 5000 stone steps upward from where I was!
On the way I made friends with Saori from Japan who taught me a lot about Buddhism.
And another 5000 stone steps down and I was in Pokhara and reunited with some friends by the lake
It was about 15 days on the Annapurna Circuit, acclimatisation dictating a slower pace than is humanly possible at lower elevation. I spent a few days in Pokhara seeing the sights then returned to Kathmandu, checked out the temples there then went to the airport to return home.
Here Nima, who lives in Kathmandu but had walked the circuit with us, came out to meet me at the airport.
She gave me a small meal and a scarf with Sanskrit symbols for good luck with my journey. Such a lovely gesture! She'd dressed up and had got a lift to the airport at 6am!
I have no apologies for the number of photos you've looked through here, if you made it this far! I took only the very best pictures from the ones I snapped en route, and I had narrowed it down to 350. Here you see the barebones of the scenery so I hope it does Nepal justice.
This has been the most spectacularly scenic place I've ever been, every day, with the most amazingly friendly and hospitable people.
The local Nepalese people I asked about their devastating earthquake just a year ago, they tell you where they were, how scared they were and the personal loss and damage to their properties. Then, without a moment's pause they beam their radiant smile and tell you about how good thing are with their rebuilding of homes. They are so happy, and they have so little.
I can't wait to go back to Nepal to do more treks, I'm totally blown away. The trip has changed me in so many ways and I'm so grateful.
Ideally I'd like to find the time to help in one of the disaster relief organisations. I met a few people who had been working with Helping Hands, a charity organisation who are rebuilding schools in Nepal. There are others of course as well.
Thank you Nepal!
Namaste!
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